Forgot to add that everything you can see of the stitching is done by hand: hems on both layers at neck, sleeve, and bottom, plus a bunch of hand done seam finishing. I tend to start my seam finishing with the sleeves, then work up from the hem, then do the rest as I have time. I’ve never had problems with my seams fraying out too much in the wash, but I do get threads that catch on my boots a lot if I don’t do the bottom, and it looks messy if the sleeves aren’t done and I roll them up to do messy stuff.
All construction for these dresses was done using a pattern similar to http://forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Tunics/TUNICS.HTML. I generally do the style without front and back gores since I don’t feel they add anything to the look and do add annoyance to the construction and use. In general, a dress with full front front gores tends to grab my stockings and twist between my legs if I am not holding it as I walk, so I select the variations that don’t give me those problems. For this outfit, the underdress is a pale yellow linen with tighter sleeves and a slightly wider neck than the overdress. The outer layer is a thin burgundy wool with bands at the sleeves. These bands are black wool embroidered with yellow wool thread. My first time working with wool thread for embroidery, in the future I would select a thinner thread, but this seems to have worked ok and shows up well, just fuzzier than I would have liked.